QT2910 – COMPRESSOR TERMINAL REPAIR KIT

QwikLug compressor terminal repair kit, used to restore a connection to pitted, burned or corroded compressor spade terminals without replacing the compressor. Each lug slides over the damaged terminal and clamps with a front-accessible Phillips screw, which works in the tight space around a terminal block. The brass interior is shielded by a nylon exterior so adjacent lugs can touch without shorting. Ships as a package of three lugs pre-wired with 10 AWG, 4 ft leads terminated in female spades for direct connection to the contactor.

Specifications published by the manufacturer. Source: manufacturer documentation.

Specs

• Wire gauge10 AWG
• Lead length4 ft
• Lead terminationFully insulated female spade connectors
• Amperage rating30 A
• QuantityPackage of 3 lugs
• ConstructionBrass interior, nylon exterior shield
• ManufacturerMainstream Engineering (QwikProducts)

Cross-reference numbers

This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:

• QT2912

Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.

How many conductors do I need?

Count terminals, then add spares. A gas furnace with cooling and a C wire needs five, for R, Y, G, W and C. A single-stage heat pump with auxiliary heat needs six or seven once you add O/B and E or W2. Two-stage or dual fuel wants eight. We stock 18/2 through 18/8, and the honest advice is to pull 18/8 on any new run. The wire is cheap and the wall is not going back open for free.

Solid or stranded?

Standard thermostat cable is 18 gauge solid copper, and that is what you want for a fixed run from the air handler to the wall. It lands cleanly in screw and push terminals and holds its shape in a cavity. Stranded belongs where things flex or vibrate, like a jumper in a cabinet or a lead to a damper motor. Skip copper-clad bargain cable. It reads fine on a meter and gives you a bad terminal a year later.

Can I use thermostat wire for the 240 volt side?

Never. Thermostat cable is Class 2 power-limited cable under NEC Article 725. It is not a branch circuit conductor and it is not rated for line voltage no matter what the jacket says. Line voltage from the disconnect to the unit goes in a listed whip or in conduit with properly sized conductors. Do not run the low voltage through that same whip either, because it is a code problem and it induces noise on your control signals.

Does run length matter?

Past about 100 feet it does, especially on 24 volt loads pulling real current. Long thin runs drop voltage and give you contactors that hum instead of pulling in. At 150 feet or more, go to 16 gauge or put a relay near the load. And protect the cable at every sheet metal pass with a grommet. That one detail is behind most blown board fuses we see.