How to Replace an Ignitor & Clean a Flame Sensor
Hot-surface ignitors crack, flame sensors get coated in carbon, and your furnace stops lighting. Test both with a multimeter, sand the sensor clean, and drop in a new ignitor when needed — a 30-minute fix that saves $200-$400.
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Important Safety Notice & Disclaimer
Working with gas furnaces carries inherent risk of gas leaks, explosion, carbon monoxide poisoning, burns, and death. The ignitor and flame sensor are located near the burner assembly where gas is present. Gas furnaces run on 120V control circuits but operate with natural gas or propane — any gas leak or improper flame detection is extremely dangerous. Never bypass safety interlocks. Always turn off the gas supply at the shutoff valve AND disconnect power at the breaker before beginning any work. Verify power is off with a multimeter. If you smell gas at any point, immediately shut off the system, leave the home, and call a licensed technician.
This guide is provided for educational purposes only. Open To Public HVAC Parts makes no warranties regarding the accuracy or completeness of this information. By following this guide, you acknowledge that you do so at your own risk. Open To Public HVAC Parts, its owners, and employees are not liable for any injury, damage, loss, or death resulting from the use of this information. If you are not comfortable working with gas appliances or electrical components, hire a licensed HVAC technician.
What Are Ignitors & Flame Sensors?
In a modern gas furnace, the ignitor and flame sensor work together to safely light and maintain the burner flame. Understanding how they work and where they sit in the burner assembly is essential for diagnosing problems and replacing them correctly.
Hot Surface Ignitors (HSI)
A hot surface ignitor is a thin ceramic heating element that glows red-hot when voltage is applied to it. Just before the gas valve opens, the control board energizes the ignitor. Within 3–5 seconds, the element reaches approximately 2,000°F and becomes hot enough to ignite the incoming gas. Once the gas flame is established and detected by the flame sensor, the ignitor is de-energized and shuts off. The ignitor looks like a small ceramic rod or pencil-shaped element, usually white or tan in color, and is mounted near the burners in the burner assembly.
Flame Sensors
A flame sensor is a thin metal rod (typically stainless steel or iron) that sits in the path of the flame. When exposed to an open flame, the sensor detects it through flame rectification — the sensor conducts current in the presence of a flame, sending a tiny millivolt signal back to the control board. This signal tells the board the flame is present and safe to continue operation. If the flame goes out or the sensor loses sight of the flame, the board immediately shuts off the gas valve and enters a lockout sequence to prevent dangerous buildup of unignited gas.
Location & Appearance
Both components are mounted in or very near the burner assembly, below the heat exchanger. The ignitor is typically positioned directly in front of the burner ports or gas jets. The flame sensor is positioned nearby, also with a direct line of sight to the flames. While they sit close together, they do very different jobs: the ignitor creates the heat to light the gas, while the flame sensor monitors that a safe, sustained flame exists. Do not confuse them — replacing the wrong part will not fix your problem.
Signs Your Ignitor or Flame Sensor Is Bad
Signs of a Failing Ignitor
- Furnace clicks or tries to start but no ignition occurs: You hear the inducer motor and gas valve click, but the flame never lights. The ignitor may be dead or too weak to reach ignition temperature.
- No visible glow through the sight glass: If your furnace has a burner sight glass, you should see the ignitor glow red during the ignition sequence. No glow = bad ignitor.
- Cracked or broken ignitor element: Visually inspect the ignitor for visible cracks, breaks, or a dull, whitish coating on the element (sign of age/failure).
- Furnace lockout code: The control board LED blinks a fault code such as “flame failure,” “ignition failure,” or “prove failure.” Check your furnace manual for the code sequence.
- Repeated ignition attempts then shutdown: The furnace keeps trying to light, failing each time, then locks out after 3–5 attempts.
Signs of a Failing Flame Sensor
- Furnace lights then shuts off within 3–7 seconds: The ignitor glows, gas lights, but immediately after the ignitor shuts off, the gas valve closes and the flame dies. Classic flame sensor symptom.
- Repeated ignition attempts with short flame duration: Each time the system tries to start, the flame lights briefly then cuts off. This cycle repeats until lockout.
- Flame sensor error codes: The control board blinks codes indicating “flame loss,” “sensor failure,” or “proving failure.”
- Flame sensor dirty or corroded: Visual inspection shows a black, sooty, or heavily oxidized flame sensor surface. A dirty sensor cannot detect flame properly.
How to Diagnose Ignitor & Flame Sensor Problems
Check the Fault Code on the Control Board
Before you do anything else, check the blinking LED on the control board. Most furnaces display diagnostic codes. Count the blinks: short blinks separated by longer pauses indicate different faults. Common codes: 3 blinks = flame loss, 4 blinks = ignition failure. Write down what you see. Consult your furnace manual or search online for the code meaning. This often tells you immediately whether to suspect the ignitor or flame sensor.
Visual Inspection of the Ignitor
With power OFF: Remove the burner access panel carefully. Look at the ignitor element. It should appear white or tan, smooth, and intact. Look for cracks, breaks, or a dull, chalky coating. If it’s obviously cracked or dark/discolored, it’s bad and needs replacement. If it looks fine visually, proceed to electrical testing.
Multimeter Resistance Test on Ignitor
With power OFF: Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms). Disconnect the wire connector from the ignitor (if possible). Touch one probe to each ignitor terminal. A good hot surface ignitor reads between 40 and 200 ohms. If you see “OL” (open line / infinite resistance), the element is broken and the ignitor is bad. If the resistance is extremely low or zero, the ignitor may have an internal short. Replace it if out of range.
Flame Sensor Visual Inspection & Cleaning
With power OFF: Locate the flame sensor (thin metal rod near the burners). Inspect it for heavy soot, dirt, or corrosion. A black, crusty, or heavily oxidized surface indicates contamination. Many flame sensor problems are simply dirt blocking the sensor’s view of the flame. Remove the single mounting screw holding the sensor. Pull it out gently. Use a fine emery cloth or fine steel wool to gently scrub the sensor surface until it’s shiny. Do not scratch or pit the surface. Reinstall and test. If cleaning doesn’t solve the problem, the sensor may be faulty and need replacement.
Flame Sensor Microamp Test (Advanced)
This requires a specialized meter and HVAC knowledge. Set your multimeter to microamps (µA) if available. With the system running and the flame lit, measure the current flowing through the flame sensor circuit. A good flame sensor typically reads 1–10 microamps. Below 1 µA suggests a weak or failing sensor. This test requires live voltage, so only attempt if you’re comfortable working with energized equipment.
Ignitor & Flame Sensor Location in Gas Furnace Burner Assembly
Tools & Parts You’ll Need
Tools
- Multimeter (for resistance and voltage testing)
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- 1/4″ and 5/16″ nut drivers or socket wrench
- Fine emery cloth or fine steel wool (for cleaning flame sensor)
- Needle-nose pliers (for wire connectors)
- Work gloves and safety glasses
- Phone/camera (to photograph wiring before disconnecting)
- Flashlight or headlamp (burner area is dark)
Parts
- Replacement hot surface ignitor (if needed — must match your furnace model)
- Replacement flame sensor (if needed — universal types available)
- Wire connectors or spade terminals (if original connectors are damaged)
Step-by-Step: Replacing the Ignitor
Turn Off All Power & Gas
Flip the power switch on the furnace to OFF. Turn off the breaker at the electrical panel. Close the manual gas shutoff valve (usually a red or black lever on the gas line). Use a multimeter to verify there’s no voltage at the control board. Do not proceed until you are absolutely certain power and gas are off.
Remove the Burner Access Panel
Carefully remove the lower burner access panel (usually 1–2 screws or a latch). Set it aside. You should now have clear access to the burner assembly, ignitor, and flame sensor. Use a flashlight to see into the burner area clearly.
Photograph the Wiring
Take clear photos of the ignitor wire connector and how it’s routed. Note any labels on the wires. This helps you reconnect the new ignitor correctly. Also photograph the flame sensor location and wiring. These photos are your safety net.
Disconnect the Ignitor Wire Connector
Locate the wire connector on the ignitor (usually spade connectors or a small plug). Gently pull the connector apart. If the connector is old and brittle, support the ignitor wires to avoid stressing them. Set the connector aside — you may reuse it or may need a new one depending on condition.
Remove the Ignitor Mounting Screw
The ignitor is held in place by one or two small screws (usually 1/4″ or 5/16″). Use the appropriate nut driver or screwdriver to remove them. Support the ignitor element gently as you remove the last screw so it doesn’t fall or break. Carefully slide the old ignitor out of its mounting bracket.
Install the New Ignitor
Carefully insert the new ignitor into the mounting bracket, aligning the screw holes. CRITICAL: Do not touch the ceramic ignitor element with bare hands. Skin oils cause hot spots on the element during operation, leading to premature failure and cracking. If you must handle it, wear clean cotton gloves. Reinstall the mounting screws snugly (don’t over-tighten or you may crack the ceramic). The ignitor should sit at the correct angle and position relative to the gas burner ports — consult your furnace manual or reference photos if in doubt.
Reconnect the Wire Connector
Push the wire connector back onto the ignitor terminals until it seats firmly. If the connector is damaged, cracked, or worn, replace it with a new one. Ensure the connection is tight and clean. Loose connections cause intermittent ignition failures.
Reinstall the Burner Access Panel & Test
Replace the burner access panel and secure it. Restore power at the breaker. Open the gas shutoff valve. Turn the furnace power switch back on. Set your thermostat to call for heat. Watch and listen as the furnace goes through the startup cycle. You should see the ignitor glow red-hot, hear a click as the gas valve opens, and see flames light across the burners. If all looks good, the replacement is successful. Run the system for 5–10 minutes to ensure it operates normally.
Step-by-Step: Cleaning or Replacing the Flame Sensor
Turn Off All Power & Gas
Flip the furnace power switch to OFF. Turn off the breaker at the electrical panel. Close the manual gas shutoff valve. Use a multimeter to confirm no voltage is present. Wait 15 minutes to ensure the burner area cools.
Remove the Burner Access Panel
Remove the lower burner access panel (1–2 screws or latch). You now have access to the burner assembly where the flame sensor sits. Use a flashlight to locate the flame sensor — it’s a thin metal rod, usually stainless steel or iron, positioned near the burners with a line of sight to the flames.
Remove the Flame Sensor Mounting Screw
The flame sensor is held in place by a single mounting screw (usually 5/16″ or 1/4″). Use the appropriate nut driver or screwdriver to remove it. Support the flame sensor as you remove the screw so it doesn’t fall into the burner area. Gently pull the sensor out of its bracket. Note the orientation — the sensor must be reinstalled pointing toward the flames.
Clean the Flame Sensor (If Contaminated)
Inspect the sensor surface. If it’s coated with black soot, dirt, or corrosion, cleaning may restore function. Use a soft, fine emery cloth or very fine steel wool. Gently scrub the surface until it’s shiny and clean. Do not scratch, pit, or gouge the surface — you want a smooth finish. Wipe away any dust with a clean, dry cloth. Reinstall the sensor in its bracket, ensuring it points toward the burners and seats fully.
Test After Cleaning
Reinstall the burner access panel. Restore power and gas. Set the thermostat to call for heat. Run a full heating cycle. If the furnace now lights, stays lit, and runs normally, cleaning solved the problem. If it still fails or lights then shuts off within seconds, the sensor is faulty and needs replacement (proceed to step 6).
Replace the Flame Sensor (If Cleaning Didn’t Work)
If cleaning didn’t restore operation, the sensor element is worn out. Turn off power and gas again (same as step 1). Remove the burner panel and the old flame sensor. Obtain a replacement flame sensor — universal types are available and work in most furnaces. Install the new sensor in the same bracket and orientation as the old one. The mounting screw should be snug but not over-tightened. Ensure the sensor has a clear line of sight to where the flames will be.
Reinstall & Test
Replace the burner access panel. Restore power and gas. Set the thermostat to call for heat. Observe a full startup cycle. The furnace should light, the ignitor should glow, the gas valve should open, flames should ignite, and the system should stay on. If it lights and runs for a normal heating cycle without shutting off, the replacement is successful.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Professional Service
| Component | DIY Part Cost | Professional Service Cost | Savings (DIY) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hot Surface Ignitor | $15 – $40 | $150 – $350 | $110 – $310 |
| Flame Sensor | $15 – $30 | $150 – $300 | $120 – $270 |
| Both Components | $30 – $70 | $300 – $650 | $230 – $620 |
Note: Professional costs include labor, diagnostic fees, and service calls. DIY costs reflect parts only. Savings vary by region and HVAC company rates.
Video Guides & Demonstrations
How to Test Hot Surface Ignitors — 2 Ways
Learn two practical methods to test an ignitor with a multimeter and by visual observation. This video covers resistance testing and voltage testing to determine if your ignitor is good or bad.
Flame Sensor vs Ignitor — How To Identify Furnace Parts
Clear explanation of the difference between flame sensors and hot surface ignitors, where they’re located, and what they do. Essential for understanding which part to replace.
How Your Gas Furnace Works — Complete Breakdown for DIY Repair
A comprehensive walkthrough of the gas furnace operation sequence, including the role of the ignitor, flame sensor, gas valve, and control board. Understanding how it all works together makes diagnosis easier.
HSI: what the abbreviation actually means
Half the people who come to our counter for one of these ask for an “HSI,” and half ask for an ignitor. Same part. HSI stands for hot surface ignitor — also spelled igniter, and both spellings are correct depending on whose catalog you are reading. You will see the abbreviation on control boards, in flash-code tables, in service manuals and on parts packaging.
An HSI is not a pilot light and it is not a spark. A standing-pilot furnace keeps a small flame burning all winter. A hot surface ignition system has no flame at all until the moment the gas valve opens onto an element that is already glowing — the element gets hot first, gas arrives second.
HSI element, HSI assembly, HSI system — three different things
These get used interchangeably online and they are not the same, which is exactly how people end up with a part that will not mount:
- The HSI element is the ceramic piece that glows. On its own it is just the fragile bit.
- The HSI assembly is what you almost always actually need — element, mounting bracket, wire harness and connector, sized and shaped for your furnace. Two furnaces can use the same element on completely different brackets.
- The HSI ignition system is the whole sequence: the board calls for heat, the inducer runs and the pressure switch proves, the ignitor energizes and glows, the gas valve opens, and the flame sensor confirms a flame. The ignitor is one component in that chain, which is why an ignitor that glows perfectly does not guarantee the furnace will light.
When you ask us for an HSI, we will ask what it is going into. That is why.
“HSI sensed open” on the control board
Some furnace controls report this fault in plain language rather than as a flash count. It means the board is measuring an open circuit where the ignitor should be — electrically the same thing as an OL reading on your meter.
It usually is the ignitor, because that is the part designed to wear out. But the board is only telling you the circuit is open, not where. Before you buy anything, check the harness and the connector at the ignitor, since a heat-damaged plug at the element end will read open with a perfectly good ignitor on the other side of it.
Silicon carbide vs silicon nitride
Two families of hot surface ignitor, and the difference matters when you are holding the old one:
- Silicon carbide is the older type — the flat, forked, obviously brittle element most people picture. These crack if you look at them wrong, and a lot of them break during removal rather than in service.
- Silicon nitride is the newer type — usually a smaller, sturdier rod or bar. Physically tougher and generally longer-lived.
They are not freely interchangeable. Voltage, warm-up time and mounting all differ, and the control expects the behaviour of the type it was designed around. Match what came out, or bring the furnace model number and we will match it properly.
Why a cracked ignitor can still pass a meter test
This one costs people a second trip. A hairline crack in the element can still conduct — so the ignitor reads within range on a meter and looks fine on paper, while it will not survive being heated. Silicon nitride ignitors in particular often show no visible damage at all when they have failed.
So the resistance test tells you when an ignitor is definitely dead (an open reading, or OL). It does not reliably tell you an ignitor is definitely good.
If the element reads in range but never glows on a call for heat, and you have confirmed it is actually getting voltage, replace it anyway. The test result does not outrank what the furnace is doing.
Never touch the element with bare fingers
Handle a new ignitor by its bracket or its ceramic base — never the glowing element itself.
The reason is simple and it is not superstition: oil from your skin leaves a residue on the element, and that spot heats differently from the rest of it. You get a hot spot, the element degrades at that point faster than everywhere else, and it burns out early — often within a season, from a part that should have lasted years.
The same goes for anything else on your hands. If you have been handling a fitting with pipe dope on it, wash before you open the ignitor package.
If you are replacing ignitors often, the ignitor is not your problem
A hot surface ignitor is a wear item. Every single ignition cycle thermally shocks a ceramic element from room temperature to glowing, and eventually that is what ends it. That is normal, and a few years is a reasonable life.
What is not normal is going through them annually. When somebody tells us they are on their third ignitor in two winters, the ignitor is a symptom:
- Short cycling multiplies ignition cycles. A furnace lighting six times an hour ages its ignitor six times as fast as one lighting twice.
- A weak or dirty flame sensor causes the board to drop out and retry, which means another ignition cycle every time.
- Marginal gas pressure or a lazy valve makes the board run the ignitor longer on each attempt.
- An oversized furnace satisfies the thermostat fast and restarts constantly, all winter.
Replacing the ignitor fixes the symptom and the next one arrives on schedule. If that is the pattern you are in, bring us the furnace model number and describe what it is doing — that conversation is free and it is usually more useful than the part.
Need an Ignitor or Flame Sensor?
Open To Public HVAC Parts stocks a full range of hot surface ignitors and flame sensors. Whether you need a universal replacement or an OEM part for your specific furnace model, we’ve got it in stock. All major brands available.
Free bench testing and troubleshooting help available at the counter. Bring your old part or a photo, and we’ll help you identify the exact replacement you need. No online sales — retail walk-in only.
Open To Public HVAC Parts
10226 Plano Rd, Suite 104
Dallas, TX 75238
Phone: (214) 340-9421
Serving Dallas since 1998 | 546+ Google Reviews | 4.9 Stars
Not sure which ignitor your furnace takes? The ignitor cross-reference chart puts the OEM numbers, universal equivalents and resistance ranges side by side.
A dirty flame sensor is the single most common reason a furnace lights and then shuts back down within seconds. If that is what yours is doing, start with the furnace short cycling guide — cleaning the sensor is free and fixes it more often than a new part does.
Walk in. We’ll match it.
Bring your old part or a photo of your unit. We’ll find the replacement, test the new one before you leave, and walk you through the install if you’ve never done one.
Ignitor & Flame Sensor Cross-Reference
Find the number off your old ignitor in the first column and read across to the aftermarket equivalents. 81 OEM numbers across sixteen brands, with the ignitor type on every row so you know what you are looking at before you order.
Lead length and the connector matter as much as the element. Two ignitors can be electrically identical and still leave you with a plug that will not reach. Bring the old one.
Ignitors are on our free testing list — walk in with yours and we will check it on the counter before you buy anything.
Trane — 11 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| B138196P01 | 41-403 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG403K | 67916 | Silicon Carbide |
| B144676P01 | 41-410 / 41-803N | 767A-377 | IG410 | 68016 | Silicon Carbide |
| B144676P02 | 41-407 / 41-803N | 767A-376 | IG407 | 67918 | Silicon Carbide |
| B340039P01 | 41-408 / 41-803N | 767A-372 | IG408 | 67919 | Silicon Carbide |
| IGN21 | 41-803N | — | SSN4000 | — | Silicon Nitride |
| IGN23 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | 67915 | Silicon Carbide |
| IGN26 | 41-409 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG409 | 67916, 67920 | Silicon Carbide |
| IGN30 | 41-403 / 41-803N | 767A-376 | IG403K | 67916, 67918 | Silicon Carbide |
| IGN34 | 41-408 / 41-803N | 767A-372 | IG408 | — | Silicon Carbide |
| IGN00054 | 41-803N | 767A-374 | — | 67919 | Silicon Nitride |
| IGN00152 | 41-428N / 41-804N | 789A-820 | — | — | Silicon Nitride OEM |
Carrier/Bryant — 6 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LH33ZS001 | 41-803N | — | — | 67920 | Silicon Nitride |
| LH33ZS001A | 41-409 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG409 | 67920 | Silicon Carbide |
| LH33ZS002 | 41-409 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG409 | 67920 | Silicon Carbide |
| LH33ZS003 | 41-803N | — | — | 67920 | Silicon Nitride |
| LH33ZS004 | 41-409 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG409 | 67920 | Silicon Carbide |
| LH33ZG001 | 41-426N / 41-804N | 789A-751A1 | — | — | Silicon Nitride OEM |
Goodman — 6 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| B1401009 | 41-412 / 41-803N | 767A-373 | IG412 | 68014 | Silicon Carbide |
| B1401015S | 41-803N | 767A-384 | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
| B1401018 / B1401018S | 41-803N | 767A-384 | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
| 0130F00008S | 41-427N / 41-804N | 789A-707A1 | — | — | Silicon Nitride OEM |
| B1172606 | 41-803N | — | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
| B1193939 | 41-803N | — | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
Amana — 8 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| B1336102 | 41-401 | 767A-369 | IG401 | 67914 | Silicon Carbide |
| D99182 / D9918202A | 41-401 | 767A-369 | IG401 | 67914 | Silicon Carbide |
| 10041601 | 41-401 | 767A-369 | IG401 | 67914 | Silicon Carbide |
| 10735002 / 10735003A | 41-802N / 41-803N | 767A-371 | SSN4000 | — | Silicon Nitride |
| 20165702 | 41-602 | 767A-378 | — | — | Mini Silicon Nitride |
| 20165703 / 20165703S | 41-602 | 767A-382 | — | — | Mini Silicon Nitride |
| 0130F00008S | 41-427N / 41-804N | 789A-707A1 | — | — | Silicon Nitride OEM |
| B138196P01 | 41-802N / 41-803N | — | SSN4000 | — | Silicon Nitride |
York — 8 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 025-27766-000 | 41-405 / 41-803N | 767A-361 | IG405 | 67917 | Silicon Carbide |
| 025-27774-000 | 41-405 / 41-803N | 767A-361 | IG405 | 67917 | Silicon Carbide |
| 025-29043-000 | 41-405 / 41-803N | 767A-361 | IG405 | 67917 | Silicon Carbide |
| 025-29050-000 | 41-405 / 41-803N | 767A-361 | IG405 | 67917 | Silicon Carbide |
| 025-32625-000 | 41-803N | — | IG4000 | 67923 | Silicon Nitride |
| 025-32626-000 | 41-803N | — | IG4000 | — | Silicon Nitride |
| 025-33421-000 | 41-603 | 767A-379 | — | — | Mini Silicon Nitride |
| S1-02545231000 | 41-429N | 789A-956A1 | — | — | Silicon Nitride OEM |
Lennox — 2 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 33J3701 | 41-802N | — | SSN4000 | 67921 | Silicon Nitride |
| 70W16 / S70W16 | 41-430N / 41-804N | 789A-801A1 | — | — | Silicon Nitride OEM |
Rheem/Ruud — 4 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 62-22441-01 | 41-402 / 41-408 | 767A-371 / 767A-372 | IG402K / IG408 | 67915, 67919 | Silicon Carbide |
| 62-22868-82 | 41-411 / 41-803N | 767A-383 | IG411 | 68013 | Silicon Carbide |
| 62-22868-93 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | 67919 | Silicon Carbide |
| 62-22868-02 | 41-803N | 767A-371 | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
Nordyne — 5 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 105141000 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 632-0770 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 632-0880 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 902661 | 41-803N | — | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
| 903758 | 41-803N | — | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
Heil/ICP/Tempstar — 3 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1096048 | 41-803N | 767A-384 | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
| 1009604 | 41-412 / 41-803N | 767A-373 | IG412 | 68014 | Silicon Carbide |
| 1148245 | 41-803N | — | — | — | Silicon Nitride |
Coleman/Evcon — 2 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1474-051 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | 67909 | Silicon Carbide |
| 1474-052 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | 67909 | Silicon Carbide |
Armstrong Air — 1 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 38322B001 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | 67915 | Silicon Carbide |
Weil-McLain — 4 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 511-330-139 | 41-409 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG409 | 67920 | Silicon Carbide |
| 511-330-190 | 41-404 / 41-803N | 767A-382 | IG404 | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 511-330-193 | 41-403 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG403K | 67916 | Silicon Carbide |
| 511-330-188 | 41-406 | 767A-374 | IG406 | 67925 | Silicon Carbide |
Roberts Gordon — 2 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 90434300 | 41-409 / 41-803N | 767A-370 | IG409 | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 90436600 | 41-402 / 41-803N | 767A-371 | IG402K | — | Silicon Carbide |
Honeywell — 1 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Q3200U1004 | 41-802N / 41-803N | 21D64-2 | SSN4000 | — | Silicon Nitride Universal |
White-Rodgers — 14 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 767A-356 | 41-401 | 767A-356 | IG401 | 67914 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-357 | 41-402 / 41-419 | 767A-357 | — | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-361 | 41-405 | 767A-361 | IG405 | 67917 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-370 | 41-409 | 767A-370 | IG409 | 67920 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-371 | 41-402 | 767A-371 | IG402K | 67915 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-372 | 41-408 | 767A-372 | IG408 | 67919 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-373 | 41-412 | 767A-373 | IG412 | 68014 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-374 | 41-406 | 767A-374 | IG406 | 67925 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-376 | 41-407 | 767A-376 | IG407 | 67918 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-377 | 41-410 | 767A-377 | IG410 | 68016 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-382 | 41-404 | 767A-382 | IG404 | — | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-383 | 41-411 | 767A-383 | IG411 | 68013 | Silicon Carbide |
| 767A-384 | 41-414 | 767A-384 | IG414 | 68014 | Silicon Carbide |
| 21D64-2 | 41-803N | 21D64-2 | SSN4000 / SIG1100 | — | Silicon Nitride Kit |
Supco — 4 numbers
| OEM PART # | ROBERTSHAW | WHITE-RODGERS | SUPCO | MARS | TYPE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SSN2000 | 41-803N | 767A-361 thru 767A-384 | SSN2000 | — | Silicon Nitride Universal |
| SSN3000 | 41-803N | 767A-301 thru 767A-384 | SSN3000 | — | Silicon Nitride Universal |
| SSN4000 | 41-802N | 767A-301 thru 767A-372 | SSN4000 | — | Silicon Nitride Universal |
| SIG1100 | 41-803N | 767A-301 thru 767A-384 | SIG1100 | — | Silicon Carbide Universal |
White-Rodgers published replacements — Carrier / ICP
These come straight off White-Rodgers’ own Carrier/ICP replacement brochure, so the cross is the control manufacturer’s, not ours.
| WHITE-RODGERS | PART | SPEC | REPLACES |
|---|---|---|---|
| 50D50U-843 | Ignition module | 24 VAC intermittent pilot + DSI, high-voltage spark | 1000167 · 1005651 · 1011449 · 1147039 · 1147669 · 1147711 · 1150558 · 1650278 · 1665151 · 1665207 · 16665241 · 35605605115 · LH33CM600 · LH33CZ007 · LH33CZ010 · LH33EP040 · LH33WP001 · LH33WP001A |
| 790-751A1 | Flame sensor | 73° bend, rod withstands 2200°F | 1172827 · 1176920 · 1179161 · 1184322 · 1190383 · LH33WZ511 · LH33WZ515 · LH33WZ517 · LH33WZ520 · LH33WZ521 · LH680012 · LH680014 · LH680534 |
| 767A-370 | Hot surface ignitor | 120 VAC, 5.25” lead | 1380654 · 1380672 · 1380680 · LH33ZS001 · LH33ZS001A · LH33ZS002 · LH33ZS002A · LH33ZS003 · LH33ZS003A · LH33ZS004 |
| 791P-751KT1 | Pilot burner assembly | 30 VAC, 60 Hz | 535-733B · 535-740 · 535-740A · 740A · AP5641413 · CAR1830620 · CARL38999 · LH33JZ053 · LH680005 · P671-1406 |
| 789A-751KT1 | Hot surface ignitor kit | 120 VAC, 9.25” lead, for 33-1/3” furnaces | 331930-751 · LH33ZS001 · LH33ZS001A · LH33ZS002 · LH33ZS002A · LH33ZS003 · LH33ZS003A · LH33ZS004 |
| 789A-751KT2 | Hot surface ignitor kit | 120 VAC, 9.25” lead, for 40” furnaces | 332505-751 · LH33ZS001 · LH33ZS001A · LH33ZS002 · LH33ZS002A · LH33ZS003 · LH33ZS003A · LH33ZS004 |
| 789A-751A1 | Hot surface ignitor | 120 VAC, 9.25” lead, Carrier/ICP connectors | 1176919 · 50PK74 · LH33ZG001 |
Shop Ignitors & Flame Sensors
Browse our in-stock inventory — or just bring your old part in and we will match it at the counter.
Not sure which part you need?
Call or text us at (214) 340-9421, or bring in your old part — we will bench-test it for free and find the right replacement.