HVAC Ignitor Cross-Reference Chart

Silicon Carbide Ignitor Cross-Reference

This table maps every standard Robertshaw silicon carbide ignitor model to its equivalent part numbers from Norton/CoorsTek, White-Rodgers, Supco, DiversiTech, MARS, and Surface Igniter. All models operate at 120 VAC and use 18 AWG lead wires.

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Silicon Nitride Universal Ignitors

These universal ignitors replace the widest range of OEM models. They include mounting brackets and hardware to fit most residential furnaces, boilers, and unit heaters. Silicon nitride is the recommended upgrade from silicon carbide for longer life and better durability.

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OEM-Specific Direct Replacement Ignitors

These Robertshaw silicon nitride ignitors are designed as exact drop-in replacements for specific OEM brands — no adapters or universal brackets needed. They match the original connector, mounting, and lead wire length precisely.

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OEM Part Number Lookup

Have an OEM part number from your old ignitor? Find it below to see which aftermarket replacements will work. This table covers the most commonly searched OEM ignitor part numbers across all major furnace brands.

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All 81 verified OEM part numbers we cross most often, listed in full. Our counter system crosses thousands more — bring any part number to the Dallas counter.

What the different ignitors look like

The word “ignitor” covers several parts that are not interchangeable, and the difference is easier to see than to describe. These are photographs of stock on our own shelf — tap any of them for the full specification.

Element on a block mount768A-845What you buy is the assembly — element, ceramic block, harness and connector. Two furnaces can share an element and use completely different blocks.OEM-shaped direct replacementIG409Built to drop into one manufacturer’s mount. Comes with its own connector and wire nuts, so nothing has to be spliced.Universal nitride kitSSN2000Note how much of the kit is brackets and hardware. The element is the easy part; the mount is the fitment.Spiral elementSIG1100A coil rather than a flat blade. Different shape, different mount — not something you eyeball as equivalent to a flat element.Spark ignitor, not hot surface62-24164-01The orange high-tension lead gives it away. This is a different ignition system entirely and does not cross to a hot surface ignitor.Ignitor and flame sensor in oneSSN24Two ceramic rods on a single bracket for Honeywell SmartValve systems. Replacing it replaces both functions.

Ignitor Types Explained

Silicon Carbide (SiC) — The Traditional Choice

Silicon carbide ignitors are the original hot surface ignitor technology used in residential furnaces since the 1980s. They have a characteristic flat, gray ceramic element that glows orange when energized. SiC ignitors are fragile and can crack from physical contact, oil from bare hands, or thermal cycling over time. They typically operate at 40-90 ohms and reach ignition temperature in about 17 seconds. Average lifespan is 3-5 years depending on cycling frequency.

Silicon Nitride (Si3N4) — The Modern Upgrade

Silicon nitride ignitors are the newer, more durable replacement technology. They can be either flat or round elements and are significantly more resistant to cracking, thermal shock, and physical damage. Si3N4 ignitors heat up faster (as quick as 3 seconds for some models), last 7-10+ years, and are generally recommended as upgrades when replacing failed silicon carbide ignitors. Most universal replacement kits on the market today are silicon nitride.

80V and 95V Ignitors — Check This Before You Buy

This is the most expensive mistake we see people make on an ignitor. A number of Trane, American Standard, Lennox and Amana furnaces run the ignitor at 80 volts or 95 volts instead of line voltage. The low-voltage ignitor looks similar to a 120V one and will physically fit. Install the wrong one and it either burns out within days or never gets hot enough to light the burners at all.

Check the old ignitor for a voltage marking, or check the furnace wiring diagram for a dedicated low-voltage ignitor output. If it is 80V or 95V, you need a matching one — a 120V universal kit will not do. These are the low-voltage ignitors we keep on the shelf:

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Symptoms — Is It Really the Ignitor?

• Full sequence, no flame. Inducer runs, pressure switch closes, you hear the gas valve click, nothing lights. This is the classic cracked ignitor.
• Ignitor never glows at all. Watch through the sight glass. No glow usually means an open element — but it can also mean no voltage is reaching it, which is a control board or wiring problem, not an ignitor problem. Check for voltage at the connector before you buy anything.
• Glows weak, orange rather than bright, or unevenly. End of life. It will fail on the next hard freeze, which is exactly when you do not want it to.
• Lights, runs a few seconds, shuts down, tries again. That is almost always the flame sensor, not the ignitor. The furnace proved ignition and then lost the flame signal. A flame sensor is a cheaper part and often just needs cleaning.
• Three or four tries and then lockout. Could be either one. Check the ignitor first because it is easier to test.
• New ignitor failed within weeks. Three usual causes: it was handled by the ceramic element during install, it was the wrong voltage, or the furnace is short cycling and igniting far more often than it should.

Ignitors We Keep In Stock

A sample of what is physically on the shelf in Dallas. This is not the whole list — we stock 60+ ignitor part numbers and our counter system crosses thousands more.

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Stock levels change daily, especially in heating season. Bring the old ignitor or your furnace model number to the counter and we will match it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Cross-reference data compiled from manufacturer specification sheets, Robertshaw hang cards, White-Rodgers competitive cross-reference guide, Supco catalog, MARS ignitor cross-reference, and DiversiTech TrueStart documentation. Always verify compatibility before purchasing. Last updated March 2026.