47-22860-01 – AUTO LIMIT SWITCH WITH ANTICIPATOR (RHEEM, L105°)

If your furnace is short-cycling (turning on and off repeatedly), a failed limit switch may be the cause. This Rheem OEM auto-reset switch opens at 105°F with a built-in heat anticipator for tighter temperature control. Low cutoff temp — typically for heat pump applications.

Specs: Opens at 105°F, auto reset, with built-in anticipator, SPST

Replaces: 47-22860-01

Fits: Rheem and Ruud furnaces and heat pump systems calling for 47-22860-01.

Need help? See our Furnace Short Cycling Guide.

In stock at Open To Public HVAC Parts in Dallas. We test parts at the counter before you buy. Call or text (214) 340-9421.

Specs

• TypeAuto-reset limit switch with anticipator (Rheem)
• Trip TemperatureL105°F
• OEM CompatibilityRheem

Cross-reference numbers

This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:

• 47-22860-01

Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.

Fits these models

• Rheem / Ruud auto-reset limit switch with anticipator heater — used on standing-pilot and older Rheem gas furnaces for accurate cycling
• Fits Rheem / Ruud Classic gas furnaces from the 1980s-2000s using the anticipator wiring
• Verify your existing switch has the anticipator lead set + 24V wiring before swapping

What does L150° mean on a limit switch?

The L-rating is the trip temperature in Fahrenheit. L150° opens (breaks the safety circuit) when surface temp hits 150°F. Common ratings on residential furnaces: L120°-L260°. Match your equipment's data-plate spec EXACTLY — wrong rating = nuisance trips OR no protection.

Auto-reset vs manual-reset — which do I need?

Match what your equipment was designed for. AUTO-reset switches close back when temp drops below the reset point (convenient, but can hide developing problems). MANUAL-reset switches require pressing the button after each trip (safer because it forces you to investigate). Most furnace primary limits are auto-reset; secondary / rollout safeties are manual-reset.

Why does my limit switch keep tripping?

The switch isn't usually the problem — it's doing its job. Common root causes: clogged air filter (most common), dirty blower wheel, undersized return duct, closed-off supply registers, failing blower motor, slipping blower belt (older units), cracked heat exchanger, oversized burner. Diagnose the airflow / heat-source issue before just swapping the switch.

What's the difference between micro and 3"/7" disc?

"Micro" is a snap-disc style limit switch (small, ~1" diameter housing, common on modern furnaces). 3" / 7" refers to the disc diameter on older bimetallic limit controls and combo fan&limit units. Verify your existing switch's style + mount geometry before swapping; they are NOT interchangeable.

Can I jumper the limit switch?

NO. The limit switch is a safety device protecting against fire and heat-exchanger damage. Bypassing it can cause carbon monoxide buildup, melted ductwork, cracked heat exchangers, or worse. If yours trips, fix the airflow / heat-source cause.

How long should a limit switch last?

15-25 years typical. Most failures are caused by the underlying root cause (repeated over-temp cycles fatigue the bimetal disc) rather than the switch itself. Replace the air filter on schedule and the limit lasts.