
SLS180 – AUTO LIMIT SWITCH (MICRO, L180°)
Auto-reset limit switches close back when temperature drops below the reset point — convenient but they CAN hide a developing problem. If yours is tripping repeatedly (you hear the furnace short-cycling on heat call), don't ignore it — find the airflow restriction or heat-exchanger issue causing the over-temp. Match the L-rating EXACTLY when replacing. L150° opens at 150°F surface temp; wrong rating = nuisance trips or no protection.
10226 Plano Rd, Suite 104, Dallas TX 75238
Questions? Call or text (214) 340-9421
Mon–Fri 10 am – 7 pm | Sat 10 am – 3 pm
Symptoms of failure
- Furnace heats for a while then shuts down on its own
- Blower keeps running hard after the burners cut out
- Furnace will not fire at all and the board shows an open limit
- It started after a filter was left in too long
- Heat works, quits, then works again once things cool off
- Rollout or high-limit keeps needing a manual reset
Seeing these does not always mean this part is the culprit. Bring the old one in and we will meter it at the counter, free, before you buy.
If your furnace is short-cycling (turning on and off repeatedly), a failed limit switch may be the cause. This auto-reset switch opens at 180°F and closes at 140°F. Compact micro size with 45° angled terminals. Crosses to Nordyne 626563 and 626614.
Specs: Opens at 180°F, closes at 140°F, auto reset, micro size, SPST, 45° angle 1/4″ terminals
Replaces: MAL180, SLS180, 626563, 626614
Fits: Nordyne/Miller/Intertherm (626563, 626614). Also universal for furnaces using a micro-base auto-reset L180 limit.
Need help? See our Furnace Short Cycling Guide.
In stock at Open To Public HVAC Parts in Dallas. We test parts at the counter before you buy. Call or text (214) 340-9421.
Specs
- TypeAuto-reset micro limit switch
- Trip TemperatureL180°F
- Mount StyleMicro snap-disc
- ResetAutomatic (closes when temp drops)
- OEM CompatibilityUniversal
Installing it yourself
- Power off at the furnace switch and confirm 0V.
- Photograph the position, the base shape and the two wire connections.
- Remove the mounting screws and pull the switch out.
- Match the OPEN temperature exactly (the L-number), the base style and the length. A hotter limit is not an upgrade, it is a hazard.
- Fit the new switch in the same location and orientation.
- Then find out WHY it opened - a dirty filter, a blocked return, a failing blower or a closed-off duct. The switch did its job.
- If you replace a limit and it opens again, stop and get the airflow looked at.
Power off at the disconnect first, every time. Not sure partway through? Bring it to the counter and we will walk it with you.
Cross-reference numbers
This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:
- MAL180
- SLS180
Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.
Fits these models
- Universal auto-reset micro limit switch — primary limit safety on residential gas furnaces and electric air handler heat kits
- Common applications: most residential furnace primary limits and electric heat kit auto-reset safeties
- Match the L-rating and mount style (micro / large base / wide mount) EXACTLY to your existing switch
What does L150° mean on a limit switch?
The L-rating is the trip temperature in Fahrenheit. L150° opens (breaks the safety circuit) when surface temp hits 150°F. Common ratings on residential furnaces: L120°-L260°. Match your equipment's data-plate spec EXACTLY — wrong rating = nuisance trips OR no protection.
Auto-reset vs manual-reset — which do I need?
Match what your equipment was designed for. AUTO-reset switches close back when temp drops below the reset point (convenient, but can hide developing problems). MANUAL-reset switches require pressing the button after each trip (safer because it forces you to investigate). Most furnace primary limits are auto-reset; secondary / rollout safeties are manual-reset.
Why does my limit switch keep tripping?
The switch isn't usually the problem — it's doing its job. Common root causes: clogged air filter (most common), dirty blower wheel, undersized return duct, closed-off supply registers, failing blower motor, slipping blower belt (older units), cracked heat exchanger, oversized burner. Diagnose the airflow / heat-source issue before just swapping the switch.
What's the difference between micro and 3"/7" disc?
"Micro" is a snap-disc style limit switch (small, ~1" diameter housing, common on modern furnaces). 3" / 7" refers to the disc diameter on older bimetallic limit controls and combo fan&limit units. Verify your existing switch's style + mount geometry before swapping; they are NOT interchangeable.
Can I jumper the limit switch?
NO. The limit switch is a safety device protecting against fire and heat-exchanger damage. Bypassing it can cause carbon monoxide buildup, melted ductwork, cracked heat exchangers, or worse. If yours trips, fix the airflow / heat-source cause.
How long should a limit switch last?
15-25 years typical. Most failures are caused by the underlying root cause (repeated over-temp cycles fatigue the bimetal disc) rather than the switch itself. Replace the air filter on schedule and the limit lasts.




