
0130F00574 – PRESSURE SWITCH
Before you buy anything, pull the hose off and blow through it, then look into the port on the inducer housing. A plugged condensate trap or a crud-filled hose fails a pressure switch far more often than the switch itself fails. Shut off the breaker and the disconnect first. Copy the setpoint off the switch body, not off a parts diagram. The two we find most often around DFW are a wasp nest in a sidewall intake and a trap that never got flushed.
10226 Plano Rd, Suite 104, Dallas TX 75238
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Air-proving (draft) pressure switch used on Goodman/Amana gas furnaces. It senses negative pressure produced by the inducer blower and closes to allow the ignition sequence to proceed, keeping the burner from firing if venting is blocked or the inducer is not moving air. The water-column setpoint for this part number is not published by the manufacturer and is not established in our records – do not assume a rating; read it off the switch body or the original switch you are replacing.
IMPORTANT: the same two-stage variable-speed furnaces also use 0130F00572 and 0130F00573, which are different capacities of the same switch. Confirm which position you are replacing — they are not interchangeable. Published application data. Always match the full model and serial number on your unit before ordering.
Specs
- Part Number0130F00574
- Brand (as recorded)Goodman
- Product TypeFurnace air pressure switch
- Setpoint (W.C.)Not published - verify on switch body
- FunctionProves inducer draft before ignition
- Data SourceOTP stock record - not manufacturer-verified
Fits these models
- GMVC80603BNCA
- GMVC80603BXCA
- GMVC80805DNCA
- GMVC80805DXCA
- AMVC80603BNCA
- AMVC80603BXCA
- AMVC80805DNCA
- AMVC80805DXCA
- GMEC800603BNAA
- GMEC800603BXAA
- DM80VC0603BNAA
What does the furnace pressure switch prove?
It is a normally open switch on a hose running to the inducer housing or the heat exchanger. When the inducer spins up and pulls enough negative pressure, the contacts close and the board is allowed to light the burners. A switch marked -0.75 in. W.C. closes at three quarters of an inch of water column of vacuum. That is the furnace verifying draft before it makes fire.
Mine will not close. Do I need a new switch?
Usually not, because these do not fail all that often. On a 90 percent furnace look at the condensate trap and drain line first - water backing up into the secondary heat exchanger is the most common cause we hear about. After that, the hose (cracked, kinked, or full of crud and water), the port on the inducer housing, the flue and intake for a bird or wasp nest, and the inducer itself for weak amp draw or a chewed up wheel.
How do I pick the right one?
Read the setpoint off the switch body. It is printed or stamped right there, along with whether it is a single or two-stage switch. Do not guess by looks - the same housing gets built at a half dozen different pressures, and -0.75, -0.80 and -0.85 in. W.C. are indistinguishable on the shelf. Bring the old switch or a clear photo of the label.
Can I jump it out to get heat tonight?
No. That switch is what keeps a blocked flue from pushing combustion gas into the house instead of out the roof.




