R32606 – FAN BLADE (3, 26″, 24°, CW. HUB ON INTAKE)

Revcor fixed-hub axial propeller fan blade: 3 blades, 26 in. diameter, 24 degree pitch, clockwise rotation, 1/2 in. bore, hub on the intake side. Galvanized, embossed for strength, factory balanced and individually boxed for unitary condensing units, heat pumps and unit heaters. Cross-referenced to Carrier LA01RA329. Always confirm rotation and hub bore against the blade you are removing.

Specifications published by the manufacturer. Source: manufacturer documentation.

Specs

• BrandRevcor
• Number of blades3
• Diameter26 in.
• Pitch24 degrees
• RotationCW
• Bore1/2 in.
• Hub positionIntake
• MaterialGalvanized
• Cross referenceCarrier LA01RA329

Cross-reference numbers

This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:

• LA01RA329
• 1172716
• LA01RA329A
• 604335
• 611893

Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.

What do I need to measure on a condenser fan blade?

Five things: diameter, blade count, pitch, bore and rotation. Diameter is tip to tip through the center, or measure the radius and double it. Pitch is usually stamped on the hub and runs roughly 19 to 33 degrees in residential sizes. Bore is the shaft hole, most often 1/2 inch or 5/16 inch. Bring the old blade in and we will match it on the counter.

Do more blades move more air?

Not by themselves. Blade count, pitch and diameter work together against the horsepower and RPM of the motor. More pitch or an extra blade loads the motor harder, and if you load a 1/4 HP motor like a 1/3 HP motor you will trip the overload or cook the winding. Match what came out. Do not try to upgrade the blade to fix an airflow complaint.

Does the blade have to match motor rotation?

Yes, and this is the mistake we see most. A CW motor needs a CW blade, verified from the shaft end. Put the wrong-hand blade on and it spins beautifully and moves almost nothing, or pulls air backward through the coil. No airflow, high head pressure, no cooling.

Hub or hubless - which do I need?

A hubbed blade has a fixed center boss with a set screw and locks at one depth. A hubless blade uses a separate adapter hub so you can set depth. Either works as long as the finished blade sits at the same height in the shroud as the old one, and the max RPM stamped on the blade is at or above your motor speed.