
FLEXCON34 – FLEXIBLE RUBBER COUPLING
Put in a cleanout tee with a threaded plug just above the trap, on purpose, the first time. It costs about a dollar and it is the difference between vacuuming a drain in five minutes and cutting glued PVC in a 140 degree attic in August. Primer plus cement on every joint, 1/8 inch of fall per foot minimum, and no bleach down the line - most manufacturers warn against it because of what it does to the pan and the sheet metal around it.
10226 Plano Rd, Suite 104, Dallas TX 75238
Questions? Call or text (214) 340-9421
Mon–Fri 10 am – 7 pm | Sat 10 am – 3 pm
Flexible rubber coupling for 3/4 in. PVC, sealed with the included hex head hose clamps – no primer or solvent cement needed. Standard use is joining or repairing 3/4 in. condensate drain lines at the air handler or in the attic. Rated for non-pressure drain systems only, indoor or outdoor, and also compatible with copper piping. 3-1/16 in. long with a 1 in. inside diameter.
Specifications published by the manufacturer. Source: manufacturer documentation.
Specs
- Fits3/4 in. PVC
- Inside Diameter1 in.
- Length3-1/16 in.
- ClampsHex head hose clamps, included
- Pipe CompatibilityPVC, copper and more
- ServiceNon-pressure drain systems, indoor or outdoor
- Application3/4 in. condensate drain lines
- Cross ReferenceReplaces 1056-075
Cross-reference numbers
This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:
- 19996
- 200358
Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.
What size and slope does a condensate drain need?
3/4 inch minimum, and never smaller than the pan fitting itself. The mechanical code treats 3/4 inch as good to 20 tons, so on a house the size is rarely the problem - the slope is. You need 1 percent minimum, which is 1/8 inch of fall per foot of run, and 1/4 inch per foot is better. Every flat or backward stretch becomes a sediment trap first and a clog second.
Why does the trap matter?
Because a draw-through air handler has its blower downstream of the coil, so the pan sits under negative pressure. With no trap the unit pulls air up the drain line and water stops moving even though the pipe is wide open. Trap it per the equipment instructions with enough seal depth to beat that negative pressure, then vent after the trap so it cannot siphon itself dry.
Do I really need a cleanout tee?
Every time. A tee with a threaded plug above the trap lets you put a shop vac or a bottle of water on the line without cutting PVC. In Dallas a 3 ton system in August throws several gallons of condensate a day, so that line is going to need service, and a float switch tripping on a plugged drain is one of the most common AC quit calls we hear all summer.
Primer on every joint?
Yes. Primer softens the surface so the cement can chemically weld the two parts together. Cement alone on a glossy unprimed socket makes a joint that looks perfect and weeps under a slow constant drip. And skip the bleach - a lot of equipment makers specifically warn against it for what it does to the pan and the surrounding metal. Use pan tablets or a hot water flush.




