B1859005 – INDUCER MOTOR (GOODMAN, AFTERMARKET DIRECT, FB-RFB859)
Before condemning the inducer, check the control board fault code. If it says "pressure switch open," the issue is normally one of four things: a bad pressure switch, a bad inducer motor, a clogged flue vent, or a clogged hose between the switch and the inducer. Check the hose and vent first (cheapest -- pull the hose and inspect, look at the vent termination for nests / debris / ice), then bench-test the switch and the inducer. If the inducer truly is bad (won't spin, bearings shot, motor windings open), you need the direct-replacement assembly for your specific OEM part -- aftermarket inducers are engineered to drop into ONE specific equipment family, not as "spec-match" parts. Bring the old assembly or your unit's model + serial number; we'll cross to the right direct replacement at the counter.
10226 Plano Rd, Suite 104, Dallas TX 75238
Questions? Call or text (214) 340-9421
Mon–Fri 10 am – 7 pm | Sat 10 am – 3 pm
Symptoms of failure
- Furnace will not light and you hear nothing before ignition
- Inducer whines, rattles or grinds on start-up
- Board flashes a pressure switch fault
- Furnace tries to start, runs a few seconds and shuts down
- Inducer runs but the burners never light
- Rumbling or vibration from the flue side of the furnace
Seeing these does not always mean this part is the culprit. Bring the old one in and we will meter it at the counter, free, before you buy.
The draft inducer motor assembly pulls combustion gases out of your furnace and vents them safely outside. If your Goodman furnace won’t ignite, shows a pressure switch error, or the inducer is noisy or won’t spin, this complete aftermarket assembly is the replacement.
Specs: 115V, 3000 RPM, 1/40 HP. Complete assembly includes motor, blower wheel, housing, and gasket. Aftermarket FB-RFB859.
Replaces: B1859005, B1859005S, 7002-2307, F33HXKDS-4369, 66005
Fits: Goodman: GMP050-3, GMP125-5; and other Goodman/Amana furnaces using inducer B1859005.
Need help? See our Furnace Not Heating Guide.
In stock at Open To Public HVAC Parts in Dallas. We test parts at the counter before you buy. Call or text (214) 340-9421.
Specs
- TypeDraft inducer motor assembly
- OEM CompatibilityGoodman
- Voltage115V (nameplate may read 110V or 120V)
Installing it yourself
- Shut off gas and power at the furnace switch and confirm 0V.
- Photograph the wiring, the pressure switch hose routing and the mounting orientation.
- Disconnect the pressure switch hose and the motor leads.
- Unbolt the assembly from the heat exchanger collector box.
- Scrape the old gasket cleanly. A leaking gasket makes the new inducer look faulty.
- Fit the new assembly with a fresh gasket, in the same orientation as the old one.
- Reconnect the hose to the same port, restore gas and power, and watch a full ignition cycle.
- Combustion parts are not a place to improvise - if anything does not seat right, stop and bring it in.
Power off at the disconnect first, every time. Not sure partway through? Bring it to the counter and we will walk it with you.
Cross-reference numbers
This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:
- FB-RFB859
- B1859005
Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.
Fits these models
- Goodman / Amana / Daikin 80%+ and 90%+ AFUE gas furnaces using this draft inducer assembly
- Common Goodman model families: GMS, GMSS, GMSC, GMVC, GMEC, GCSS — verify cross-reference to your specific model
My furnace lights then shuts off after a few seconds -- is the inducer bad?
Almost never. That symptom is virtually always a dirty flame sensor -- the burner lights, but the sensor isn't pulling enough microamps to confirm flame, so the board closes the gas valve as a safety. Pull the flame sensor, clean it with fine emery cloth, reinstall. That fixes 9 out of 10 "ignites then dies" calls.
My furnace won't even try to ignite -- could it be the inducer?
Possibly. The ignition sequence is: thermostat calls heat -> inducer motor comes on -> inducer pulls negative pressure -> pressure switch closes -> ignition starts. If the pressure switch never closes, the board throws a "pressure switch open" fault code and the cycle never starts. Normal causes: (1) a bad pressure switch, (2) a bad inducer motor, (3) a clogged flue vent, or (4) a clogged hose between the switch and the inducer. Check the hose and vent first (free), then bench-test the switch and the inducer.
How do I test an inducer motor?
Pull the assembly, spin the wheel by hand -- should turn freely, no grinding. Apply 120V directly to the motor leads (skip the board) -- should run smoothly. If it doesn't spin, draws weak airflow, or bearings whine, replace.
Will an aftermarket inducer fit my OEM equipment?
Aftermarket inducer assemblies are engineered to be direct replacements for one specific OEM part -- they're not "universal" parts you spec-match like motors or fan blades. The aftermarket either replaces your exact OEM assembly (look for "DIRECT REPLACEMENT" in the title) or it doesn't fit at all. Bring the old assembly or your unit's model + serial number; we'll cross-reference at the counter.
How long should an inducer motor last?
8-15 years typical. Bearing failure is the usual mode. Sealed-bearing motors last longer than open-bearing.
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