B1370150 – FURNACE PRESSURE SWITCH (-0.85PF)

Furnace air-proving pressure switch used on Goodman/Amana equipment, recorded at a -0.85 in. W.C. setpoint. It proves that the draft inducer is pulling adequate negative pressure before the ignition sequence is allowed to continue. Verify the setpoint stamped on the switch you are replacing, since neighboring part numbers differ only by rating. Goodman/Daikin publishes no public part detail, so the specifications below come from our own stock records; confirm against the part nameplate before installing.

Specifications from our own stock records. The manufacturer does not publish a public page for this item.

Before you order

This switch supersedes B1370149 and B1370151. Published application data. Always match the full model and serial number on your unit before ordering.

Specs

• Part NumberB1370150
• Brand (as recorded)Goodman
• Product TypeFurnace air pressure switch
• Setpoint-0.85 in. W.C.
• FunctionProves inducer draft before ignition
• Data SourceOTP stock record - not manufacturer-verified

Cross-reference numbers

This part replaces the following OEM and aftermarket numbers:

• S1-02435786000
• S1-024-40873-000
• S1-02440873000
• 9371VO-HS-0005

Not sure if your number matches? Call (214) 340-9421 or bring the old part in — bench-testing is free.

Fits these models

• ADS81155CNA
• ADS81155CXA
• DDS81155CXA
• GDH81155CXAA
• GDS81155CNA
• GDS81155CNAA
• GDS81155CXA
• GDS81155CXAA
• GDS81155CXBA
• GDT115-5
• GDT115-5A
• GDT115-5B
• GMN080-4
• GMN100-4
• GMN120-5
• GMNT060-3
• GMNT060-3B
• GMNT100-4
• GMNT100-4B
• GMP125-52DA
• GMP150-52DA
• GMPN080-4
• GMPN100-4
• GMPN120-5

What does the furnace pressure switch prove?

It is a normally open switch on a hose running to the inducer housing or the heat exchanger. When the inducer spins up and pulls enough negative pressure, the contacts close and the board is allowed to light the burners. A switch marked -0.75 in. W.C. closes at three quarters of an inch of water column of vacuum. That is the furnace verifying draft before it makes fire.

Mine will not close. Do I need a new switch?

Usually not, because these do not fail all that often. On a 90 percent furnace look at the condensate trap and drain line first - water backing up into the secondary heat exchanger is the most common cause we hear about. After that, the hose (cracked, kinked, or full of crud and water), the port on the inducer housing, the flue and intake for a bird or wasp nest, and the inducer itself for weak amp draw or a chewed up wheel.

How do I pick the right one?

Read the setpoint off the switch body. It is printed or stamped right there, along with whether it is a single or two-stage switch. Do not guess by looks - the same housing gets built at a half dozen different pressures, and -0.75, -0.80 and -0.85 in. W.C. are indistinguishable on the shelf. Bring the old switch or a clear photo of the label.

Can I jump it out to get heat tonight?

No. That switch is what keeps a blocked flue from pushing combustion gas into the house instead of out the roof.